Setting up a brand-new shower system

Setting Up a New Shower Unit

An effective shower installation needs careful planning and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you need to pick the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is very important to determine whether the chosen shower can managing particular systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. A lot of shower units nowadays are created to be versatile to various water pressures (such as stored hot water and cold mains).

It is likewise crucial to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely basic to set up. However, although the hose connection is simple, it is easily removed. In addition, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is a very low-cost choice and no extra plumbing is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also experience bothersome temperature control options.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the previously pointed out mixers. They also need extra plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. Among the biggest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes practical temperature level control. However, it is the most costly of the different mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system containing a powerful electrical pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water cistern and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a combination boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit allows the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain unaffected by other taps elsewhere in use within the household. A major disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob only permits the choice of heats at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a greater pressure. This is problematic in the winter season when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is taken on in some models which are offered with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you wish to install, the shower head need to either be suited order blocked drains repair VIC https://glowmagazine.co.uk/what-causes-blocked-drains-in-your-plumbing-system/ to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is recommended to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drainage system to eliminate the waste water will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an immediate or electric shower unit is being installed.

Use the instruction guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the supply of water. In order to secure the pipelines, they should be given a water resistant covering and also fitted with isolating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some may need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have actually been made (there must be assistance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Fit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be raised to a higher height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the primary and circulation pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be linked into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the go to the shower as brief and straight as possible so as to preserve maximum pressure and reduce heat loss. In addition, by reducing using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaking or ignoring regional code restrictions.

# Utilizing pipes that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipeline substance at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your components when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.

# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can cause issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.