How to Extend Seal Life in a Myers Pump

A cold shower that fades to a trickle, then nothing—if you’ve lived on a private well, you know that dread. Loss of pressure, short-cycling, and a burned seal almost always show up together. When a seal fails in a well pump, water gets where it shouldn’t, bearings don’t stay cool, and the whole system starts eating itself. You don’t need another band-aid; you need a field-tested approach that keeps seals healthy for the long haul.

Meet the Orellanas: Mateo Orellana (39), an agricultural science teacher, and his wife, Liana (37), a nurse, raising two kids—Sofia (11) and Ruben (8)—on six acres outside La Grande, Oregon. Their 265-foot basalt well has seasonal drawdown and fine silt. After a budget 1 HP pump from a big-box brand failed twice in four years—first from a cracked housing, then a blown mechanical seal—they called me through PSAM. Their water use is typical: two baths, laundry, dishwasher, and light garden irrigation, needing 8–12 GPM with steady 50–60 PSI at the house. What they didn’t realize: the seal wasn’t the root cause; it was the victim of poor sizing, grit, and cycling abuse.

Here’s the playbook I gave the Orellanas—and the same one I give contractors and serious DIYers—to extend seal life in a Myers pump, especially the Predator Plus Series. We’ll cover sizing to hit the Best Efficiency Point, protecting the seal from grit, stabilizing pressure, managing starts, wiring correctly, and venting heat—all the boring details that keep your pump alive. You’ll also see why Myers outlasts common competitors and why buying right once is worth every single penny.

Along the way:
We’ll size horsepower and staging so seals aren’t shocked (#1). We’ll keep grit and sand out of the seal faces (#2). We’ll tune tanks and pressure switches to stop rapid cycling (#3). We’ll set a realistic BEP and stay near it for cool operation (#4). We’ll match voltage, wire, and control gear for cleaner starts (#5). We’ll use stainless, not cast iron, downhole (#6). We’ll install check valves and pitless components correctly (#7). We’ll address water chemistry that chews seals (#8). We’ll protect against heat and dry-run conditions (#9). We’ll add filtration and purge practices for silty wells (#10). We’ll maintain the system so little issues don’t wreck seals (#11). We’ll choose the right Myers product—jet, submersible, grinder, sump—then accessorize smartly (#12).
Before we jump in, a reminder why Myers and PSAM are the right partners:
Myers Predator Plus Series submersibles deliver 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP with Pentek XE motors, engineered for long life and cooler operation. 300 series stainless steel components resist corrosion that leads to seal failure. Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers shrug off fines and grit. You get a true industry-leading 3-year warranty, UL/CSA compliance, and Made in USA quality, backed by Pentair’s R&D and PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock pumps. I’ve sized, installed, and rescued hundreds of systems. This list is built from field scars, not guesses.
Let’s keep that seal alive.
#1. Size the Pump to Your TDH and GPM – Match HP, Stages, and the Pump Curve to Protect the Seal
Proper sizing prevents overheating and axial loading mistakes that eat seals. A submersible well pump running far left or right of its pump curve runs hotter, vibrates more, and transmits more thrust through the shaft—every bit of which the mechanical seal feels.

Technically speaking, you want the chosen Myers Predator Plus Series model to operate near its best efficiency point (BEP) at your home’s flow demand. That means calculating your TDH (total dynamic head)—static water level, drawdown, friction loss in drop pipe, fittings, and the 1-1/4" NPT discharge—then matching it to the staged pump’s curve so you land within 10–15% of BEP at your typical GPM. Running too far off-curve spikes temperature and thrust, drying or scoring seal faces.

For Mateo and Liana, we replaced the generic 1 HP with a Myers 1 HP, 10–12 GPM, multi-stage submersible matched to 260–280 feet TDH at 9–10 GPM. We aimed operating pressure at 55 PSI with a 40/60 switch. Their seal hasn’t seen a red-hot minute since.
Pro method: Build TDH honestly
Don’t guess. Measure static water level and pump down to estimate drawdown under flow. Add elevation to tank tee, plus friction from drop pipe (typically 1" or 1-1/4") and fittings. Cross-check with a pressure switch setting. Accurate TDH makes or breaks seal temperature profile.
Match staging to GPM
A 7–10 GPM home prefer a 10–13 stage 1 HP at 230V; deeper wells may need 1.5 HP or more stages. Over-staging a small motor = axial loads the mechanical seal doesn’t like. Under-staging = heat and cavitation. Use PSAM’s curve charts.
Rick’s rule: Size for 60–80% duty
Aim so that everyday operation sits between 60–80% of max flow for your chosen model. That keeps motors cooler and seals happier, especially in summer irrigation months.

Key takeaway: The fastest path to longer seal life is nailing sizing—HP, stages, and GPM—so the pump lives near its BEP and doesn’t thrash the seal.
#2. Stop Grit at the Inlet – Teflon-Impregnated Staging and Intake Screen Placement Save Seals
A mechanical seal can’t win a fight with sand. Protect it. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers resist abrasion better than old-school composites, but don’t push your luck. Pay attention to inlet placement and intake protection.

Myers uses engineered composite impellers and a suction screen to block larger fines before they reach moving faces. In silty wells, set the pump intake at least 10–20 feet above the well bottom and above the heaviest silt layer. Add a cable guard and torque control to reduce movement—bouncing agitates sediment. In extreme grit zones, we’ll sometimes upsize staging GPM to lower tip speed and reduce erosion.

For the Orellanas, we raised the pump 18 feet and shocked the well after the swap to reduce loose fines. We also recommended a spin-down sediment filter at the house. The old system fed the seal a steady diet of grit; problem solved.
Positioning: Depth matters
Too deep equals silt. Too shallow risks air ingestion with seasonal drawdown. Use driller logs if you have them. As a rule, keep the intake 5–10 feet below the lowest seasonal water level and 10–20 feet above the bottom.
Screen and check the intake
Inspect the intake screen at service intervals. If it’s packed, your seal is at risk. A blocked inlet elevates temperature and invites micro-cavitation—both killers of mechanical seal faces.
Add a purge routine
Seasonal wells benefit from a brief, high-flow purge to move fines past the screen. Use an outside spigot or hose bib to flush, not your kitchen tap.

Key takeaway: Keep sand and fines out, and the seal lives a long, quiet life. Myers staging helps; smart placement finishes the job.
#3. Balance the Pressure Tank and Switch – Stop Rapid Cycling that Cooks Seals
Short-cycling raises seal and bearing temperatures quickly. A properly sized pressure tank, correctly set pressure switch, and no-leak distribution line keep starts to a minimum and temperatures stable.

Use a tank with at least one gallon of drawdown per GPM of pump capacity. For an 8–10 GPM home, I like 20–30 gallons of drawdown. With a 40/60 switch, set tank precharge to 38 PSI. Confirm the switch differentials align with household demand so the pump runs for 60–90 seconds per cycle under normal draw.

The Orellanas had a tiny tank and a leaking yard hydrant. Two-minute off-on cycles were common. We installed a 44-gallon tank (roughly 12–14 gallons drawdown at 40/60), fixed the hydrant, and the pump now runs smoother, cooler—and the seal stays happier.
Set precharge correctly
Shut down power, drain the tank, set the air precharge to 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40 PSI cut-in). Low precharge equals short cycles; high precharge starves flow.
Check for leaks
A pinhole in a drop line can cause ghost cycling. So can a dripping frost-free hydrant. Fix them. Every start is stress on the seal.
Consider constant pressure
For irrigation-heavy homes, a constant-pressure valve or VFD-based system can reduce cycles dramatically. Myers works well in both traditional and modern setups.

Key takeaway: Fewer, longer cycles protect seals by keeping motor temps and axial thrust steady. Right-size the tank and tune the switch.
#4. Operate Near BEP – 80%+ Hydraulic Efficiency Keeps Seal Faces Cool and Stable
Running near the pump’s BEP reduces vibration, axial thrust, and heat—all direct contributors to seal longevity. Myers Predator Plus Series routinely delivers 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP when matched to the application.

Technically, BEP is where impeller hydraulic forces are balanced, minimizing shaft deflection. When you force the pump to the left of the curve (high head, low flow), temperature rises and suction recirculation chews seal faces. At far right (low head, high flow), you get cavitation and unstable thrust. Seal life drops in either case.

For Mateo’s 265-foot well with a 10 GPM need, we chose a stage configuration that peaks around 9–10 GPM at their TDH. That keeps the Pentek XE motor running cool and limits thrust across the threaded assembly, protecting seal faces for the long run.
Use curves, not guesses
Check PSAM’s Predator Plus curves. Target your daily flow at the center-high portion of the efficiency island, not at the cliff edges.
Seasonal adjustments
If summer irrigation increases demand, consider a slightly higher GPM model that still hits BEP under peak flow. Overshoot and a throttling valve can move you back to BEP if needed.
Watch amperage
An ammeter is a great teacher. Excess draw at steady-state hints you’re left of curve—redo the math.

Key takeaway: BEP isn’t academic. It’s the difference between smooth, cool seal operation and premature wear.
#5. Clean Power and Correct Wiring – Pentek XE Motors, 230V Feeds, and Proper Control Gear
Electrical instability punishes seals by creating heat and vibration. Myers pairs the Predator Plus with Pentek XE motors featuring thermal overload protection and lightning protection, but clean power and correct wiring are still essential.

Whenever possible on submersibles, run 230V, not 115V. Lower amperage means less voltage drop over long runs and cleaner starts. Use the correct gauge cable downhole and ensure watertight wire splice kits. For 3-wire models, use compatible control boxes. For 2-wire models, enjoy simpler starts with fewer components to fail.

The Orellanas had undersized wire and a sloppy splice. Voltage sag at startup, chattering contactors, and heat followed. We upgraded to proper gauge for the drop and re-terminated with heat-shrink splice kits from PSAM. Smooth starts, stable current—happier seals.
Voltage drop math
Keep total drop under 5%. Consult motor amperage, length of run, and wire gauge charts. Undersized wire equals low voltage equals hot motor equals seal stress.
Surge protection
Add a quality surge protector at the service panel. Lightning events are brutal on windings and seals when motors start erratically afterward.
2-wire vs 3-wire
Myers offers both. In many residential installs, a 2-wire well pump simplifies components and reduces failure points that can lead to harsh start-stop conditions.

Key takeaway: Electrical stability equals thermal stability. Thermal stability equals long seal life.
#6. Choose 300 Series Stainless – Corrosion Resistance That Keeps Seals Out of Harm’s Way
Material choice matters underwater. 300 series stainless steel in the Myers Predator Plus—shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—prevents the corrosive creep that misaligns shafts and shreds seals.

In acidic or mineral-heavy wells, cast iron components can pit and flake. Those particulates travel straight into the seal faces. Stainless resists, which means a cleaner fluid path, lower friction, and longer seal life. Myers’ lead-free construction and NSF/UL/CSA certifications give you confidence the materials hold up for the long haul.

When I pulled the Orellanas’ old pump, the housing had pitted so badly the discharge threads were nearly gone. That corrosion wasn’t just ugly; it sent debris into the seal. Their new stainless Predator Plus hasn’t shed a speck.
Chemistry check
If your pH runs below 6.5 or iron stains fixtures, stainless is non-negotiable. It’s the difference between an 8–15 year pump and a 3–5 year headache.
Wear rings and couplings
Stainless wear rings and couplings keep alignment tight under temperature swings. Good alignment equals happy seals.
Don’t forget the drop pipe
If you’ve got corrosive water, consider stainless or high-quality PVC drop pipe and brass or stainless fittings to keep the whole assembly resilient.

Key takeaway: Stainless construction prevents corrosion-driven misalignment and debris—two stealthy seal killers.
#7. Check Valves, Pitless Adapters, and Discharge Design – Eliminate Water Hammer and Backspin
Hydraulic shocks from water hammer and backspin can slam seal faces. Proper check valve placement and a quality pitless adapter reduce reverse flow and shock loads during shutoff.

A submersible’s internal check valve handles most residential installs. When the static column is tall or the run is long, add an inline check valve above the pump and another near the pitless—never stack too many. Space them properly and ensure the discharge line supports the weight with a sound mounting bracket at the tank tee.

Mateo had no additional check above the pump with a tall column. The column backspun on shutdown, “snapping” at every close. We added a non-hammering, high-quality check at the recommended distance and secured the pitless and yard line. Seal stress dropped overnight.
Anti-hammer practices
Use slow-closing valves indoors. Avoid sudden solenoid closures on irrigation without a hammer arrestor. Hammer is audible—in your basement and in your seals.
Pitless integrity
A worn or misaligned pitless adapter causes pressure fluctuations and leak-back. Inspect the O-ring and seating surface every pull.
Discharge sizing
Don’t choke the pump with an undersized discharge line. Backpressure spikes hurt seals and bearings.

Key takeaway: Stop reverse flow and shocks, and your seal stops taking uppercuts.
#8. Water Chemistry Management – Iron, Manganese, and Hardness Aren’t Just Cosmetic
Chemistry can glaze, pit, or foul mechanical seals. Address iron, manganese, hardness, and low pH before the pump pays for it. Myers’ corrosion resistant design buys time; treatment seals the deal.

If iron or manganese exceed 0.3–0.5 ppm, you’ll see staining and potentially abrasive particulates. Hardness above 10 grains can precipitate scale on hot components. Acidic water accelerates metal attack. Test your water, then add appropriate treatment—oxidizing filters, softeners, or pH neutralizers—downstream of a sediment stage to keep fines in check.

The Orellanas’ water carried 0.7 ppm iron with fine silt. A spin-down sediment filter followed by an iron filter dramatically reduced particulates. Seal faces now see clean, lubricated water, not slurry.
Treat in order
Go sediment first, then iron/manganese, then softening, if needed. Protect the pump first, the plumbing second, and fixtures third.
Maintain media
Clogged filters cause pressure swings and starvation. Change cartridges and backwash on schedule to keep flow smooth.
Watch temperature
Hotter water can plate minerals faster. Keep pumps at design flow to avoid heat soak, which accelerates scale and seal glazing.

Key takeaway: Good chemistry management prevents abrasive and corrosive attacks on seals. Don’t ask your pump to be a filter.
#9. Protect Against Dry Run and Overheat – Thermal Protection and Low-Water Strategies
Dry runs are death to mechanical seals. Myers’ Pentek XE motor includes thermal overload protection, but adding operational safeguards is wisest. In wells with seasonal drawdown or marginal recovery, a low-water cutout is cheap insurance.

Install a pump protector that senses dry run or low current and drops power before seal faces overheat. Pair with a level-sensing control if your well is touchy. Where recovery allows, use a timed restart to let the water column stabilize. Keep the pump intake where water is reliable, and never “search” for more flow by lowering it into muck.

During the Orellanas’ 2025 August heat wave, their protector tripped twice during peak irrigation. That one device probably saved a burned seal and a weekend call-out.
Thermal realities
Seal faces rely on water for cooling and lubrication. No water equals friction equals heat equals failure. Protect accordingly.
Pump placement
Set intake depth based on drawdown data, not hope. More depth is not always safer.
Controller choices
Many modern protectors integrate surge suppression and dry-run sensing. PSAM stocks models matched to Myers amp profiles.

Key takeaway: Dry-run protection is a small cost that prevents catastrophic seal failure. Add it and forget it.
#10. Filtration and Purging Strategies – Keep Fines Moving Past the Pump, Not Through It
Fine particulate, even in low concentrations, polishes seal faces the wrong way. Upstream management keeps seals clean. Use a purge routine after heavy storms or well work, and use appropriate filtration at the house to keep the distribution system clean.

A simple 100-mesh spin-down filter before the tank tee can be helpful on problem wells if freezing isn’t a risk; otherwise, place it after the tank. Purge from a hose bib closest to the entry to move fines through at high velocity for a few minutes after any event that disturbs the well. Never throttle the pump excessively to “filter through the pump” — that just heats the seal.

For the Orellanas, we installed a flushable spin-down followed by a cartridge filter, with a quarterly purge reminder. Result: the Myers seal sees cleaner water and runs cooler.
Filter placement
Where freeze risk exists, keep filters indoors after the tank. Use brass or stainless housings for longevity.
Purge flow
Open a full-flow spigot and run 5–10 minutes after storms, maintenance, or when water looks dirty. Keep the pump at operating GPM to carry fines past.
Monitor pressure drop
If filters clog often, improve prefiltration or consider well development by a driller.

Key takeaway: Let the well move fines past the pump, not through the seal. Filtration and purging are your friends.
#11. Maintenance Intervals that Matter – Inspect, Test, and Record
A Myers can run 8–15 years easily, and with excellent care, 20–30. Stretching seal life depends on regular check-ins. Once a year, run a preventive maintenance loop: check static and pumping levels, drawdown, tank precharge, amperage draw, and visual signs like air spurts or cloudy water.

Record baseline amps at typical flow. If amps rise without load changes, you may be left of curve—clean filters, check leaks, and reevaluate sizing. Inspect the internal check valve at the next pull and verify no leakage. Confirm pressure switch contacts aren’t pitted and that wires are tight, with no insulation nicks downhole. Keep a log; it saves pumps.

The Orellanas keep a simple notebook: date, PSI settings, precharge, amperage, and notes. When something feels “off,” they call PSAM, and we catch issues early.
Annual checklist Tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in) Static level (if accessible) Flow test at hose bib (time a 5-gallon bucket) Amperage at steady flow Filter service and visual water clarity Every pull Inspect intake screen Check drop pipe and wire for wear Verify check valves and pitless O-ring condition Call before it fails
A tiny hum or a new rattle often precedes a big bill. Early intervention saves seals.

Key takeaway: Routine, simple checks prevent small issues from turning into seal failures.
#12. Choose the Right Myers Pump for the Job – Submersible, Jet, Sump, Sewage, and Grinder
Not every application is a deep-well submersible—but every application can benefit from the same seal-preserving logic. Myers offers a full line: Myers submersible well pump (Predator Plus), Myers jet pump for shallow or convertible applications, Myers sump pump for drainage, and Myers grinder pump or Myers sewage pump for wastewater. Each is engineered with materials and components that protect seals and bearings when installed correctly.

For deep wells, a Myers deep well pump in the Predator Plus Series with a Pentek XE motor is my go-to. For medium wells with low power availability, a 1/2 or 3/4 HP 230V submersible often fits. For seasonal cabins, a jet can be right, but lines must be primed and protected from freezing to spare seals. PSAM can kit pumps with torque arrestor, safety rope, well seal or pitless adapter, check valve, and a fittings kit so you’re not missing that one last part on install day.

The Orellanas? A Predator Plus, 1 HP, matched staging, 230V single-phase, stainless build, in a tidy PSAM bundle—and water on, reliably.
Accessorize for seal life Surge protection Dry-run protection Correct tank sizing Sediment/iron filtration Proper wire splice kits Power and wiring
A single-phase motor at 230V with clean wiring pays dividends in cooler starts and longer seals.
Fast support
PSAM stocks pumps and parts for same-day shipping when emergencies strike. That’s seal insurance by logistics.

Key takeaway: Pick the right Myers for the job and equip it properly; everything else is easy on the seal.
Detailed Competitor Comparisons (Why Myers Is Worth Every Single Penny)
Compared to Goulds Pumps, which frequently rely on cast iron components in various models, Myers’ use of comprehensive 300 series stainless steel in the Predator Plus submersibles delivers superior corrosion resistance in acidic or mineral-heavy water. On motor technology, the Pentek XE pairing in Myers consistently hits higher efficiency near BEP than many standard https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/1-2-hp-submersible-well-pump-9-stages-for-deep-wells.html https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/1-2-hp-submersible-well-pump-9-stages-for-deep-wells.html motors, translating to cooler operation and reduced axial loading at the seal. Efficiency matters: higher hydraulic efficiency and steady thrust loads keep seal faces lubricated, not scorched.

In the field, Goulds cast iron elements can pit under low pH, shedding particulates that travel into seal faces. Maintenance often escalates: more frequent pulls, more filter changes, more downtime. Myers mitigates that with stainless construction, Teflon-impregnated staging, and impellers designed for grit resistance. When the entire assembly is field serviceable with a threaded assembly, you get quick on-site turnaround without a full replacement. That’s more uptime, less damage, and better water quality. For rural homeowners depending on daily, whole-house service, the corrosion-proof path is worth every single penny.

Franklin Electric builds a respected submersible, but in many installs the proprietary control box and dealer network add cost and limit field flexibility. Myers Predator Plus provides 2-wire and 3-wire well pump options that work seamlessly with common control gear and straightforward field service. On the performance side, I’ve measured more stable amperage curves with the Pentek XE under real-world sag conditions. Stable current equals stable heat profiles; seals love that.

Real-world differences show up at install time and at year ten. Myers’ 3-year warranty leads common coverage windows, while you also gain easy access to PSAM’s same-day shipping and full accessory kits. For a homeowner in the middle of nowhere with a dry tap, reducing dealer bottlenecks and getting a pump that myers pump https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/plumbing-hvac-brand-categories/myers-pumps.html thrives near BEP—matching actual TDH and GPM—changes everything. You buy once, you install once, you get a decade-plus of service. That’s worth every single penny.

Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings can work in mild conditions, but pressure cycling and temperature fluctuations often lead to stress cracks over time. Thermoplastic doesn’t like the thermal expansion you see in real wells—sun on the casing, cold nights, and rapid starts in hot weather. Myers stainless steel shells shrug off expansion and pressure transients, maintaining alignment so the mechanical seal stays true. Add the internal check valve and proper discharge design, and you dampen hammer events that would rattle a lighter housing.

Across dozens of replacements, systems that “graduate” from thermoplastic to stainless immediately stop chasing micro-leaks and hammer noises. You’ll see it on a manometer and hear it in the silence after shutoff. When you factor lifetime energy savings at 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, far fewer replacements, and the coverage of a 36-month warranty, Myers becomes the economical choice over ten years. No contest—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Expert Answers from the PSAM Bench 1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start with the numbers: static water level, expected drawdown under flow, vertical lift to the pressure tank, and friction losses in your drop pipe and fittings. Add them to get TDH. Then match TDH with your target GPM rating (8–12 GPM for most homes) using the Myers Predator Plus pump curve. If you’re at 250–300 feet TDH and want 10 GPM, a 1 HP or 1.5 HP with the right stages usually fits at 230V. Oversizing can push you off BEP and increase axial load at the seal; undersizing invites heat and cavitation. For a three-bath home with laundry and irrigation, I often target 10 GPM around 50–60 PSI, landing near BEP. Rick’s recommendation: send PSAM your well data and fixtures; we’ll spec a Myers that runs cool and steady, extending seal life from day one.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most single-family homes are well served at 8–12 GPM. Peak loads—showers plus laundry plus dishwasher—push the high end. Multi-stage impellers build pressure by stacking head per stage. Your pump may be 10–15 stages depending on TDH and desired PSI at the tank tee. At 50–60 PSI, plus friction and elevation, those stages give you pressure stability. Running near the center of the curve (BEP) with the right staging keeps mechanical seals cool. Too many stages with too little flow raises thrust and heat; too few stages, and you risk running flat out. Rick’s recommendation: Choose a Myers Predator Plus configuration that hits BEP at your typical household draw; seals and bearings will thank you.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Myers achieves high efficiency by matching engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging with precision clearances and a Pentek XE motor tuned for thrust and torque stability. The design targets the efficiency “island,” minimizing recirculation and vibration at BEP. High efficiency means lower heat for a given GPM and head—better for seals. Compared to generic multi-stage pumps with looser tolerances, Myers runs steadier amps and lower motor case temperatures under equal TDH. Over a year, that can cut energy use 10–20%. Rick’s recommendation: install a Myers that sits close to BEP at your actual operating point; you’ll get the efficiency and the seal life you paid for.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Underwater, 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion from low pH and aggressive minerals better than cast iron. Corroding iron sheds flakes and pits, misaligning shafts and sending debris to the seal faces. Stainless maintains smooth surfaces and tight tolerances, protecting seals and nitrile rubber bearings. For wells with iron, manganese, or acidity, stainless keeps pumps structurally sound for 8–15 years, often longer. Rick’s recommendation: In any questionable chemistry, stainless is mandatory. Myers’ stainless shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, and suction screen build a seal-friendly environment from the start.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction and abrasion when fine grit passes through, keeping temperatures lower at the seal interface. The engineered composite materials in Myers Predator Plus resist micro-erosion that would otherwise widen clearances and increase recirculation. Less recirculation equals less heat and thrust instability—exactly what seals need. In silty wells, combine this with proper intake height and a periodic purge. Rick’s recommendation: If your well produces fines, Myers’ staging design is your friend—pair it with smart placement and filtration.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
The Pentek XE motor is designed for high thrust handling with optimized windings and cooling paths. It tolerates the vertical thrust of multi-stage impellers better and keeps rotor temperatures lower at typical residential loads. With thermal overload protection and lightning protection, it rides through events that cook standard motors. Lower rotor heat and stable thrust translate to fewer temperature spikes at the seal. Rick’s recommendation: Use 230V wherever possible with proper wire gauge. The Pentek XE plus clean power equals a cool-running seal.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
It depends on your comfort with electrical and plumbing work. Many experienced DIYers can install a Myers submersible well pump using PSAM’s kits: pitless adapter, torque arrestor, safety rope, check valve, wire splice kit, and fittings. You must calculate TDH, select staging, and set the pressure switch and pressure tank correctly. Electrical safety and code compliance matter—especially 230V circuits. For complex wells (300+ feet, variable recovery, water treatment integration), a licensed contractor is smart money. Rick’s recommendation: If in doubt, have a pro handle the pull and set; you’ll protect the seal and keep warranty intact.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump has start components in the motor; wiring is simpler, no external control box needed. Fewer parts means fewer failure points and often smoother installs—great for most homes. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start capacitors and relays, allowing easier service of starting components and sometimes preferred in very deep or demanding applications. Myers offers both, so you can choose based on install complexity and service philosophy. Rick’s recommendation: For most residential setups under 300 feet, 2-wire simplifies life and reduces opportunities for harsh start cycles that can stress seals.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
You should see 8–15 years commonly, and I’ve seen 20–30 with excellent sizing, power quality, and water chemistry management. Seal life tracks with temperature, grit control, and cycling behavior. Keep operation near BEP, avoid short cycles, filter fines, and protect against dry run and surges. Myers backs it with a 3-year warranty, far better than many brands. Rick’s recommendation: Log your system data annually. Early corrections keep the pump—and seal—running into a second decade.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Annually: verify tank precharge, test GPM at a hose bib, check pressure switch contacts, measure motor amperage at steady flow, and service sediment/iron filters. Every pull: inspect the intake screen, internal check valve, drop pipe, and downhole wiring. After storms: purge fines for 5–10 minutes. Every few years: re-check static and pumping levels. Rick’s recommendation: Put it on a calendar. Little checks prevent big seal failures.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance issues—12 to 18 months is common elsewhere. With PSAM, you get support that actually helps you troubleshoot root causes rather than just swapping parts. Combined with UL listed and CSA certified assemblies, you’re getting quality assurance and real coverage duration. Rick’s recommendation: Pair the warranty with good install practices (sizing, filtration, electrical). You reduce claim needs and maximize uptime.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget brands might save you a few hundred at checkout, but frequent replacements (every 3–5 years), higher energy use, and downtime add up fast. A properly sized Myers running at 80%+ efficiency, with stainless steel components and Pentek XE motors, can shave 10–20% off energy, avoid replacement cycles, and maintain pressure smoothly—fewer calls, fewer parts, fewer headaches. Over 10 years, expect Myers to beat budget units by 15–30% in true cost, especially with PSAM’s fast shipping and support. Rick’s recommendation: Buy once, cry once. Myers is the reliable long-term play.

Conclusion: A Seal-Safe System Starts with Myers and PSAM

A mechanical seal doesn’t fail on its own—it fails because sizing, hydraulics, power, chemistry, or maintenance stacked the deck against it. Myers solves most of that out of the box: Predator Plus Series, 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motors running near BEP produce cool, stable performance. Add PSAM’s system kits, same-day shipping on in-stock, and real technical guidance, and you’ve got a well water system you’ll forget about—in the best way.

Mateo and Liana moved from emergency calls to dependable water. You can too. Choose a psam myers pump, size it correctly, protect it from grit and electrical abuse, and keep a simple maintenance log. The result is 8–15 years of reliable service—with a strong shot at 20–30. For rural homeowners and contractors who can’t afford downtime, that’s not a luxury; it’s the standard. And yes—it’s worth every single penny.