Installing a new shower system

Installing a New Shower Unit

An effective shower setup needs cautious planning and a great deal of work. In many cases, you will require to do three types of jobs: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should decide on the type of shower that you want to install. It is necessary to determine whether the selected shower is capable of dealing with certain systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Many shower units nowadays are created to be flexible to various water pressures (such as saved hot water and cold mains).

It is also crucial to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap as per your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and incredibly simple to set up. Nevertheless, although the tube connection is easy, it is easily removed. Furthermore, it is troublesome to adjust the temperature level.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this type of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a very cheap option and no additional pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with bothersome temperature control alternatives.

Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety Click here for more info https://www.fixitrightplumbing.com.au/plumber-fitzroy/ of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more expensive than the formerly pointed out mixers. They also require extra plumbing of hot and cold supply of water pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall system and the hot and cold water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. One of the greatest benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes convenient temperature level control. However, it is the most pricey of the various mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of a powerful electric pump that is capable of modifying both the water pressure and temperature. This type of shower can be fitted if there is water system from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it disagrees for water warmed straight by the shower or where the water is supplied by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The unit enables the temperature and pressure to be changed through a knob. Models with temperature stabilisers are better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the household. A significant disadvantage of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the choice of heats at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter when the spray is typically weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is dealt with in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you wish to install, the shower head need to either be suited order to avoid its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the drainage will require to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television path and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an immediate or electric shower system is being installed.

Use the instruction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is necessary to cut off the water supply. In order to secure the pipes, they need to be provided a waterproof covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the overall look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to turn off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there should be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower

The cold water tank can be raised to a greater height (often just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden support underneath it-- possibly composed of struts and blockboards. If you pick this option, the primary and distribution pipes will also have to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is selected, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to utilize 15mm size supply pipelines, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Furthermore, by reducing the use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can achieve this by flexing the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaking or disregarding local code restrictions.

# Using pipelines that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall remains in place.

# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leakage.)

# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outdoors hose pipe valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.