What's Digging Holes in My Backyard? Determining the Perpetrator

06 January 2026

Likely prospects include squirrels, moles, voles, skunks, raccoons, armadillos, groundhogs, chipmunks, pet dogs, and bugs like cicada killers. The size, shape, area, and soil disturbance around the holes tell you a lot, as do tracks, droppings, time of day the activity happens, and what's missing from your yard. With a little observation, you can generally narrow it to a couple of types, then choose targeted fixes that really work.

I have actually walked hundreds of lawns with property owners looking at a polka-dotted yard and a sinking feeling in the gut. Many holes are not emergency situations, but they can imply real damage to grass, gardens, and watering. The technique is to detect before you treat. A generic approach wastes cash and frequently makes the issue even worse. Listed below, I'll break down what I search for, case by case, and where I fix a limit and call a certified exterminator or wildlife control operator.
Start with the hole, not the animal
You most likely won't catch the intruder in the act. The ground is your witness, and it speaks. Get a measuring tape. Photo the hole beside a coin or a glove for scale. Note the time you initially observed activity and whether it's recurring after rain or mowing.
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Hole diameter matters. So does whether there's a mound, a fan of loose soil, claw marks, or smooth edges. Fresh soil has a richer color and holds shape; older holes collapse and gray out. Smell the soil if you can tolerate it. Skunk digs typically bring a faint musk. Raccoon latrines are apparent once you have actually seen one, however let's hope you have not.
Quick size guide, with personality
Small holes the size of a dime to a quarter, shallow and scattered, indicate insects or small rodents. Golf ball size to tangerine size suggests chipmunks, squirrels, or wasps. Baseball to softball size burrows with specified entryways, often with a stack of excavated soil, recommend mammals that live underground or raid yards in the evening. Anything larger than a grapefruit, with a clear tunnel and fresh spoil, brings groundhogs or armadillos into play.
Squirrels: neat divots with a habit
Squirrels cache and recover food by making little, shallow divots 2 to 3 inches broad. These holes hardly ever go deeper than two inches, and they often appear near trees or along fence lines where squirrels take a trip. In fall you'll see a burst of activity as they bury acorns and pecans. In spring they dig some of them up. Soil is generally tossed aside lightly, not piled.

What helps: thinning heavy nut drop, raking frequently, eliminating fallen fruit, and using hardware fabric to safeguard beds. Repellents can lower activity short-term, but they rinse. Do not lose cash on sonic stakes for squirrel holes. If the yard is pocked however not collapsing, you're taking a look at annoyance, not structural damage.
Chipmunks: little burrowers with hidden doorways
Chipmunk burrow entrances run around one and a half to 2 inches large, cool and round, without any excavated mound at the entrance. That absence of a soil stack is a hallmark. They bring soil away in cheek pouches and discard it inconspicuously. You'll find entryways at slab edges, steps, maintaining walls, and rock borders. If the hole lives under an air conditioner pad or concrete stoop, chipmunks are among the very first suspects.

Typical signs include plant roots nibbled off from below and hollow paths under mulch where they commute. I have actually seen stoops settle when chipmunk burrows honeycomb the soil. Live-trapping with sunflower seed works, however you require to close gain access to later with quarter-inch hardware fabric and fixed mortar joints. If they're undermining structures, seek advice from wildlife control.
Moles: engineers of the subsurface
Moles do not eat your plants; they consume grubs and earthworms. Their signature is the raised runway. You'll feel spongy ridges underfoot and see volcano-like mounds if they're excavating deep tunnels. The holes themselves are not normally open; you're observing collapsed portions where the roof paved the way under a lawn mower wheel or after rain. Yard appears like somebody laid a garden pipe just under the sod.

Key detail: active mole runs feel firm and springy if you push with a palm, and they get restored within a day after you tamp them down. Non-active runs flatten and remain flat. Control options include trapping along active runs, decreasing grub populations if your grass has recorded grub pressure, and preventing overwatering, which draws earthworms upward and keeps soil wet, conditions moles enjoy. Grub control alone does not ensure mole removal since worms are a main food. Expert mole trapping works when placed on straight, often utilized runs.
Voles: plant assassins with pinholes
Voles, typically called meadow mice, leave silver-dollar sized openings and, more telling, quarter-inch large runways pushed through grass and mulch. In winter season, they tunnel under snow and after that expose a damage map when the thaw comes. You'll discover girdled shrubs with bark chewed at the base and bulbs hollowed like apples. Unlike moles, voles do consume roots, bulbs, and bark.

What assists: snap-traps in peanut butter bait stations put perpendicular to runways, habitat reduction by pulling mulch back from trunks, and tight hardware fabric collars around young trees. Felines make a damage. Toxin baits are available but featured non-target threats. If voles are heavy and next-door neighbors are likewise impacted, a collaborated effort works much better than a solo campaign.
Skunks: neat cones at night
Skunks penetrate lawns gently however constantly, especially when grubs are plentiful. The holes are cone-shaped, about one to 3 inches wide, and shallow, like somebody poked the lawn with a finger. Nighttime activity, grub-chasing, and a faint musk provide away. In heavy problems, a yard can look like it was peppered with a golf tee.

Skunks will also den under decks and sheds, where you may see a bigger opening, 4 to 6 inches wide, with soft soil at the threshold and a noticeable odor. If you presume a den and it's spring, be cautious; there might be kits. Exemption with one-way doors is a timing video game and is finest delegated pros. Long-lasting, repair the food source. If a soil sample or turf yank test shows grubs at harmful levels, deal with the yard. If you do not have grubs, skunks generally lose interest.
Raccoons: yard roll-up artists
Raccoons are strong, curious, and nighttime. Where skunks peck, raccoons pry. They roll back turf like a carpet to eat grubs and worms beneath, leaving flaps of sod or square sections nicely turned. If your grass lifts quickly in mats, raccoons or armadillos are prime suspects depending on area. Tracks in soft soil show hand-like prints with noticeable fingers and nails.

Preventive steps include securing garbage, eliminating pet food, and brilliant movement lights. To prevent lawn flipping, water less at night, which lowers earthworms near the surface. Where damage is extreme, a wildlife pro can set compliance traps, however you need to combine capture with gain access to control and food reduction or you create a revolving door.
Armadillos: diggers with a travel route
In the southern states, armadillos leave quarter to baseball sized cone-shaped holes, 2 to five inches deep, while foraging for grubs and bugs. They work at night and follow habitual paths. Their burrows are larger, typically eight inches across, with crescent-shaped spoil piles and an unique earthy odor. Unlike raccoons, they will not roll turf, they pierce it. If you have a slope with soft soil and a lot of beetle activity, armadillos discover it fast.

They are notoriously trap-shy unless you funnel them with boards along their normal routes. Fencing to omit them need to be buried or turned outside at the base. Control of white grubs reduces interest but does not remove it totally. Check regional policies before any control; some areas restrict methods.
Groundhogs: huge holes, big appetite
A groundhog burrow appears like a 8 to twelve inch round hole with a big mound of excavated soil nearby, often with a secondary escape hole without a mound. You'll discover gnawed vegetation near the entryway and well-worn courses. They love clover, beans, lettuce, and flowers. Under decks, sheds, and embankments are prime den areas. I once evaluated a groundhog den with a smoke bomb the owner had attempted. The smoke put out 2 additional holes twenty feet away. That's typical, which is why half procedures fail.

Groundhogs are strong diggers and can weaken slabs. If animals or children utilize the backyard, do not leave an active burrow open. Lethal control and moving have legal restrictions and disease risk. This is where a certified wildlife operator makes their fee: setting body-grip traps at the den in accordance with state law, then installing a buried exemption skirt to avoid re-entry.
Rabbits: small holes are red herrings
Rabbits do not dig big burrows in the majority of backyards. They use shallow scrapes in mulch or grass, called kinds, and typically nest in depressions lined with fur. What looks like a hole might be a nest cavity covered with thatch. If you discover infant rabbits, cover the nest lightly and keep family pets away; the mother returns briefly at dawn and sunset. If you see a two to three inch entryway under a low shrub, it might be a chipmunk, not a rabbit.
Wasps and bees: search for traffic, not dirt
Cicada killer wasps develop impressive quarter-sized holes with a fan of loose soil and a pebble or 2 at the rim, typically in bare, sun-baked ground. They are big, intimidating fliers, however singular and usually non-aggressive away from active burrows. Yellow coats, by contrast, use existing cavities and you will not see a neat stack or a specified tunnel the method mammals do. What you will see is traffic. If the hole hums with comings and goings during daylight, call a pest control service that deals with stinging insects. Do not put gas into holes, ever. It eliminates soil, dangers groundwater, and does not reliably reach the nest.
Ants and termites: mounds and pellets
Ants bring soil up in crumbly mounds with multiple tiny openings. Fire ants develop high, soft mounds without a main crater. Termites do not leave open holes, but you might see pencil-thin mud tubes up structure walls or sand-like pellets from drywood termite kickout holes in structures, not lawns. If you notice uniform, peppery pellets around a wooden threshold, gather a sample for identification. Yard ants are normally an annoyance; structural termites are not. When wood is included, bring in a certified pest control operator for an examination and a targeted treatment plan.
Dogs and human factors
Sometimes the perpetrator is a bored pet, a contractor who left test holes, or a next-door neighbor's animal that gos to during the night. Canine holes are typically broader, messier, and located near cool soil under shrubs or where something smells fascinating, such as a buried bone or drip line. Movement cameras resolve these mysteries quickly.

I have actually likewise had two lawns where irrigation leakages softened soil so severely that animal traffic seemed to blow up. When the leak was repaired and the ground dried, activity dropped. Soft ground invites digging due to the fact that pests and worms are plentiful. Constantly inspect watering if the damage pattern follows a pipeline route.
Reading the context: season, weather condition, and region
In the Midwest, grub feeding peaks late summer season into fall, which is when skunks and raccoons go to work. In northern climates, vole damage shows up after snowmelt. In the Southeast and Gulf states, armadillos and fire ants make complex the photo. Wet springs bring earthworms to the surface area and moles follow. Drought focuses activity around irrigated yards. If you understand what's in season, you can prepare for and prevent.
How to validate without guesswork
A trail video camera with night vision, set six to 10 inches above ground and intended throughout a thought runway or hole, frequently resolves the puzzle in 2 nights. Fresh flour around the hole entryway records tracks without damaging animals. A plank over a mole run with a cup inverted beneath can spot an active push. These low-tech tricks minimize the threat of dealing with the wrong species.

If you choose a tidy, very little technique before committing to equipment, do a two-day test: tamp mole ridges in the evening, then look for brand-new pushes at dawn; rake skunk pecks smooth at sunset, then try to find fresh cones in the morning; fill chipmunk holes gently with soil to see which reopen within 24 hours, then see those entrances from a window.
Prevention that in fact sticks
Most house owners request for a single cure-all. There isn't one. The reputable path blends habitat changes with targeted control. Cut at the proper height for your turf types so the canopy is dense and roots are strong. Prevent persistent overwatering; deep, occasional watering beats daily sprinkles. Reduce food for the animals you don't want, which frequently indicates controlling the animals they consume or removing simple calories like birdseed spills and fallen fruit.

Seal structural gaps larger than half an inch with hardware cloth or mortar where practical. For decks and sheds, an exemption skirt of galvanized hardware cloth buried six inches with a horizontal turn of twelve inches outside stops most burrowers. When you garden, use bulb cages for tulips in vole nation and select daffodils where possible because voles ignore them. If you must use repellents, rotate active components and do not expect wonders during heavy pressure.
When to generate a pro
Certain scenarios press beyond do it yourself. Big denning animals under structures. Aggressive stinging bugs with covert nests. Recurring mole or armadillo damage over multiple seasons in spite of efforts. Circumstances near schools or public sidewalks where liability is real. A licensed exterminator or wildlife control operator brings species-specific traps, legal clearance, and experience placing them correctly. Ask about their examination process, what they think the target types is and why, and what they will do to prevent re-entry once the instant problem is fixed. Good pros discuss exemption and habitat, not simply removal.

Costs differ widely by area and types. Mole trapping programs typically run in multi-visit plans. Groundhog elimination with exemption skirts can be a multi-day task. Constantly ask for a written strategy and guarantee terms. If someone guarantees universal outcomes with a spray that "drives whatever away," be skeptical.
Safety notes you must not skip
Rodent baits can kill animals and non-target wildlife through primary or secondary poisoning. If you utilize them, use locked bait stations, choose solutions less likely to cause secondary eliminates where suitable, and follow the label precisely. Fumigants for burrows are restricted-use in numerous states and can be lethal to unintentional animals, including family pets. Never ever release a fumigant without appropriate licensing and training.

Gasoline, bleach, ammonia, and mothballs do not belong in the soil. They stop working more than they succeed and contaminate your lawn. When you're dealing with skunks, keep in mind the risk of rabies in numerous areas. Prevent cornering any animal, and keep pets leashed at dusk and dawn while you diagnose.
Matching common patterns to most likely culprits
Here's a concise field pairing you can run through in your head.

Cone-shaped pecks across the yard after a warm, wet night, plus a faint musk: skunks foraging for grubs.

Sod rolled like carpet with square or ragged edges, over night: raccoons, perhaps armadillos in the South if there are leak holes too.

Raised, spongy ridges that reappear after you press them down: moles, not voles.

Two-inch round holes without any soil stack at piece edges or actions: chipmunks.

Eight to twelve inch holes with a large spoil mound near sheds or embankments: groundhogs.

Quarter-sized holes in hard, sunny soil with a loose fan of dirt, daytime wasp traffic: cicada killers.

Keep in mind that combined signs happen. A lawn can host moles creating tunnels and after that skunks exploiting them for a meal. If you see both runs and pecks, treat both parts of the formula or you'll chase your tail.
Repairing the lawn and beds after the offender is gone
Once the activity stops, rake loose soil, topdress low areas with evaluated garden compost or topsoil, and reseed or plug as needed. For rolled grass, water, press it back, and pin with biodegradable stakes for a week. For vole runways, rake to rough up the thatch and overseed. For burrow entryways under structures, backfill just after you are specific the den is empty and you have installed exclusion. Filling an active den just moves the exit and may trap animals where you can't reach them.

If grubs were part of the problem, choose a product that matches your timing. Preventive applications with active ingredients like chlorantraniliprole in late spring target newly hatched larvae. Alleviative items used in late summer season take on existing grubs. Do not use both without a factor; test and verify pressure first.
A realistic expectation on timelines
Most yard wildlife problems deal with within two to four weeks when detected correctly and resolved with focused actions. Moles may require a few strategic trap checks. Raccoons proceed once the buffet closes. Groundhog removal and exemption may take a week, often two if there are several den holes. On the other hand, vole population decreases can take a season since you're changing habitat in addition to numbers.

Give yourself a calendar marker. If you do not see improvement in 7 to ten days after an appropriate intervention, reassess. Either the species ID is incorrect, the food source stays, or access wasn't closed. A short check-in with a pest control professional at that point typically conserves weeks of frustration.
A short, useful checklist to recognize and act
Measure hole diameter and depth, note mound existence, and picture for scale.

Map where holes happen: open lawn, edges, along slabs, near beds, or under structures.

Check timing: fresh holes at dawn, night cam activity, seasonal patterns.

Test the yard: tamp mole runs, fill up little holes gently, see what reopens.

Decide on targeted action: trapping, exemption, or habitat/food adjustment, and set a one to 2 week review.
Final ideas from the field
The ground tells the story if you decrease and read it. Most property owners begin with a product and end with a guess. Flip that. Make a tidy recognition, then use the lightest efficient touch. When the damage points to a denning animal or stinging bugs near traffic, generate a professional with the right tools. If you keep your lawn healthy, remove easy calories, and close structural spaces, you'll invest far less time going after animals and more time delighting in the space. And if something brand-new starts digging next season, you'll understand how to listen to the lawn and catch the culprit quickly.

<strong>Business Name:</strong> Valley Integrated Pest Control
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<h2>Popular Questions About Valley Integrated Pest Control</h2> <br><br> <h3>What services does Valley Integrated Pest Control offer in Fresno, CA?</h3>
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides pest control service for residential and commercial properties in Fresno, CA, including common needs like ants, cockroaches, spiders, rodents, wasps, mosquitoes, and flea and tick treatments. Service recommendations can vary based on the pest and property conditions.
<br><br> <h3>Do you provide residential and commercial pest control?</h3>
Yes. Valley Integrated Pest Control offers both residential and commercial pest control service in the Fresno area, which may include preventative plans and targeted treatments depending on the issue.
<br><br> <h3>Do you offer recurring pest control plans?</h3>
Many Fresno pest control companies offer recurring service for prevention, and Valley Integrated Pest Control promotes pest management options that can help reduce recurring pest activity. Contact the team to match a plan to your property and pest pressure.
<br><br> <h3>Which pests are most common in Fresno and the Central Valley?</h3>
In Fresno, property owners commonly deal with ants, spiders, cockroaches, rodents, and seasonal pests like mosquitoes and wasps. Valley Integrated Pest Control focuses on solutions for these common local pest problems.
<br><br> <h3>What are your business hours?</h3>
Valley Integrated Pest Control lists hours as Monday through Friday 7:00 AM–5:00 PM, Saturday 7:00 AM–12:00 PM, and closed on Sunday. If you need a specific appointment window, it’s best to call to confirm availability.
<br><br> <h3>Do you handle rodent control and prevention steps?</h3>
Valley Integrated Pest Control provides rodent control services and may also recommend practical prevention steps such as sealing entry points and reducing attractants to help support long-term results.
<br><br> <h3>How does pricing typically work for pest control in Fresno?</h3>
Pest control pricing in Fresno typically depends on the pest type, property size, severity, and whether you choose one-time service or recurring prevention. Valley Integrated Pest Control can usually provide an estimate after learning more about the problem.
<br><br> <h3>How do I contact Valley Integrated Pest Control to schedule service?</h3>
Call (559) 307-0612 tel:+15593070612 to schedule or request an estimate. For Spanish assistance, you can also call (559) 681-1505 tel:+15596811505. You can follow Valley Integrated Pest Control on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/ValleyIntegratedPest/, Instagram https://www.instagram.com/valleyintegrated/, and YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoYqg_NgmKnvChQQMuI0Fig

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